[section label=”Introduction” anchor=”Introduction”]Introduction

In 2009 Tippmann unleashed their supremely popular TPX pistol. Within a few years an after-market parts economy sprung up to satiate players desire to fit the platform into different roles and needs. As shown in our TiPX Guide, some of these mods included SMG style body kits ranging from composite to aluminum bodies. Tippmann, seeing players burning desires for such a platform, took it upon themselves to provide an off the shelf SMG paintball marker, thus giving the world the Tactical Compact Rifle, or TCR.

The TCR is designed and built around the TiPX internals, but featuring several key differences. First, the TCR is First Strike compatible straight out of the box, no need to purchase a breech from a third party company. Second, a new, more efficient spool valve was built in order to address the HPA low velocity issues that plague the TiPX. This valve is also used in Tippmann’s X7 Phenom marker as well. Aside from those changes, the TCR has a built in remote line connector, giving players the choice between 12 gram CO2 cartridges or a remote tank (a CO2 dummy cartridge is still required to be in the CO2 chamber when using the remote line).

The CO2 cartridge chamber is located on the front of the marker below the barrel much like the TiPX; however, unlike the TiPX the chamber is accessed through a door on the side of the marker. Tippmann put a lot of thought into this, and given a little technical know-how, the door can be flipped to either side allowing left handed players the ability to change cartridges the same way right handed players do.

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[section label=”The Marker” anchor=”The Marker”]The Marker

Marker: Tactical Compact Rifle or TCR

Manufacturer: Tippmann

Marker Type: Magazine Fed Marker

Valve Type: Spool

First Strike Capable?: Yes

Weight: 4.5lbs

[section label=”Magazines” anchor=”Magazines”]Magazines

Tippmann 7rd TruFeed Magazine

Not First Strike compatible

Cost: $15 each, comes in packs of 2 for $30

Tippmann 12rd TruFeed Magazine

First Strike Compatible

Cost: $20 each, comes in packs of 2 for $40

StarkPursuit 20rd ZetaMag Generation 3 Magazine

First Strike Compatible

Cost: $25 each

Tempest Drum Magazine

First Strike Compatible

Cost: ~$125

7rd First Strike Magazine

Cost: $15

NOTE: This is a mod you make yourself to the standard Tippmann 7 rd TruFeed magazine. Proceed at your own risk!

Legend:

Cost:

$ = <$50

$$= $51-$100

$$$=$101-$200

$$$$=$200+

[section label=”Barrels” anchor=”Barrels”]Barrels

Since the TCR is essentially a TiPX clone with similar barrel limitations, the most popular TiPX barrels are a direct fit for the TCR. Because the TCR is A5 threaded there is a large ecosystem of barrels that could work with the TCR. For the purposes of this guide, we will just highlight a few of the most popular barrels on the market.

Python Barrel Kit

Description: Most barrel sizing kits cannot fit the TCR due to the shroud. Python Paintball makes an insert kit with an insert adapter and a specific barrel for the TiPX, that would also work on the TCR. TechT buys and re-brands Python kits as iFIT kits to sell through their own channels.

Length:

First Strike Compatible: No

Bore Size: Inserts range from .678 to .692

Barrel Cost: $$$

Bonus: The Python barrel is threaded to accept various barrel tips/flash suppressors.

JJ Barrel

Description: A short ceramic barrel by J&J Sports

Length: 6.5″

First Strike Compatible: Yes, but not optimized for FS rounds

Bore Size: Unknown

Barrel Cost: $

LAPCO 8″ Bigshot Barrel

Description: An aluminum 8″ barrel by LAPCO Paintball. The Assault version comes with extra porting and a threaded tip.

Length: 8″

First Strike Compatible: Yes, but not optimized for FS rounds

Bore Size: .684 – .690

Barrel Cost: $$

LAPCO TiPX First Strike Barrel

Description: A rifled LAPCO barrel for First Strike rounds

Length: 9″

First Strike Compatible: Yes

Bore Size: .683

Cost: $$

Hammerhead First Strike Rifled Barrel

Description: A rifled and threaded barrel by Hammerhead barrels.

Length: 8.15″

First Strike Compatible: Yes

Bore Size: .686

Cost: $$

MILSIG Marksman Barrel

Description: A threaded and rifled barrel for the TCR.

Length: 7″ & 10″

First Strike Compatible: Yes

Bore Size: .688

Cost: $$

TCR Stock Barrel

Description: The stock barrel is pretty good out of the box. Many players see no need to replace it.

Length: 11″

First Strike Compatible: Yes

Bore Size: Unknown

Cost: Included with Marker

[section label=”Magazine Releases” anchor=”Magazine Releases”]Magazine Releases

Despite Tippmanns efforts to make the TCR a ‘Swiss Army Knife” marker, they still missed one detail – the magazine release. Thankfully players have realized this issue and there are several options from the TiPX that will work on the TCR as well.

StarkPursuit Extended Magazine Release

Description: Provides players a more prominent magazine release button to help facilitate no-look magazine changes

Mod Type: Marker Capability

Technical Difficulty: Low, Requires marker to be disassembled

Time to Complete: <15 minutes

Modification Cost: $

Exalt Extended Magazine Release

Description: Provides players a more prominent magazine release button to help facilitate no-look magazine changes

Mod Type: Marker Capability

Technical Difficulty: Low, Requires marker to be disassembled

Time to Complete: <15 minutes

Modification Cost: $

Dead Cell Extended Magazine Release

Description: Provides players a more prominent magazine release button to help facilitate no-look magazine changes

Mod Type: Marker Capability

Technical Difficulty: Low, Requires marker to be disassembled

Time to Complete: <15 minutes

Modification Cost: $

WinterWorx Ambidextrous Magazine Release (AMR)

Description: Provides both left and right handed magazine release capability for the TiPX and TCR.

Mod Type: Marker Capability

Technical Difficulty: Low, Requires marker to be disassembled

Time to Complete: <15 minutes

Modification Cost: $$

Exalt Ambidextrous Magazine Release

Description: Provides both left and right handed magazine release capability for the TiPX and TCR.

Mod Type: Marker Capability

Technical Difficulty: Low, Requires marker to be disassembled

Time to Complete: <15 minutes

Modification Cost: $

[section label=”Optics” anchor=”Optics”]Optics

Risers

MILSIG Lightweight Scope Riser

Description: It’s almost a necessity to have a scope riser. This is but one popular example.

Mod Type: Function, Aesthetics

Technical Difficulty: Low

Time to Complete: <5 minutes

Modification Cost: $

Scopes/Sights

Leapers UTG 4×32 Pro 5-Step Reticle Crossbow Scope

Description: This is but one example, due to similar trajectories many paintball players prefer a crossbow scope.

Mod Type: Function, Aesthetics

Technical Difficulty: Low

Time to Complete: <5 minutes

Modification Cost: $$-$$$$+

Rifle Scope

Description: There are tons of options for rifle scopes, this is just an example. NCStar scopes are fairly robust and affordable when compared to most other scope manufacturers.

Mod Type: Function, Aesthetics

Technical Difficulty: Low

Time To Complete: <5 minutes

Modification Cost: $$-$$$$+

Red Dot Sight

Description: Red Dot Sights are always a popular option for many markers, the TCR is no exception.

Mod Type: Function, Aesthetics

Technical Difficulty: Low

Time To Complete: <5 minutes

Modification Cost: $$-$$$$+

[section label=”Unofficial Modifications” anchor=”Unofficial Modifications”]Unofficial Modifications

[alert variation=”alert-danger”]NOTE: These modifications are permanent, non-reversible and WILL void your Tippmann warranty. PaintballTech.Net does not endorse nor encourage making these modifications. This section is to demonstrate what other players have done to suit their individual needs and desires. Should you choose to make these modifications PaintballTech.Net cannot be held liable for any damages or consequences resulting from individuals copying these modifications.[/alert]

Chamfer the Magwell
Similar to what we saw on the TiPX, some players will remove excess material from the magwell entrance and round out the area to facilitate faster magazine swaps.

Polishing Internals
In markers such as the Tippmann 98 variants there is metal on metal action between the bolt an the shell. A lot of players polish this area to reduce friction and increase the efficiency of the marker. Greater efficiency means more shots per tank and more consistent ball velocity since it does not require as much force to cycle the bolt.

There is very little metal on metal action inside of the TCR, so polishing the breach won’t herald much, if any, improvement for you. You can, however, still polish the parts of the breach where the ball feeds into. Smoothing that out reduces drag on the ball thus reducing the possibility of a ball break in the breach.

NOTE: Early number TCR’s require that you polish and remove material from the breech as the newer FSRs are too large and will flip in the breech causing the bolt to bind in the forward position. (hat tip to Glenn Mehltretter for this note)

Chamfering the breech ball feed hole
You can also chamfer the ball feed hole in the bottom of his breech for much the same reasons as stated above. Be wary of this, if you take too much out you will introduce feeding issues to your marker.

Add a Notch to your breech ball feed hole
First Strike rounds as of late have been arriving with a prominent nipple on the front of the round. This nipple often catches in the breech or magazine causing feeding issues. By cutting a notch into the front of the ball feed hole you provide an avenue for that nipple to pass through as opposed to catching on the breech. Alternatively, you could sand/cut off the nipples of the FSRs without impacting integrity or performance.

Honing Stock Barrel
Manufacturers these days are providing better stock barrels on their markers and the TCRis no exception. The stock barrel performance is enough that should you be on a tight budget, it will perform well. However, as with everything, there is room for improvement. The inside of the TCR’s stock barrel can be further polished using a process known as honing. Smoother barrel = less friction = more efficiency ~= better accuracy.

[section label=”Players Gallery” anchor=”Players Gallery”]Players Gallery

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[section label=”Troubleshooting and Maintenance” anchor=”Troubleshooting and Maintenance”]Troubleshooting and Maintenance

From the Manual:

PROBLEM: Marker will not fire when a new CO2 cartridge is inserted, and cannot remove it due to being punctured.
SOLUTION: Place marker on safe, install barrel blocking device and remove magazine. Locate the CO2 cartridge adjustment screw (located on the front of the picatinny rail of the CO2 cartridge door) and back it out until the CO2 cartridge vents. Be careful and keep your hands away from the door and the HPA adapter in rear as C02 will vent out of these locations. You will have to readjust this screw in order to ensure proper CO2 cartridge puncturing again.

PROBLEM: Air/CO2 leaking out of gas vent holes.
SOLUTION: Check, clean or replace the Puncture Seal.

PROBLEM: Magazine will not feed paintball correctly.
SOLUTION: Try using fresh paintballs.
SOLUTION: Clean the paintball track in the magazine. If using water, dry springs immediately.
SOLUTION: Ensure that the breech is clear and the detents are installed correctly.

PROBLEM: Marker does not pressurize after pulling the trigger.
SOLUTION: Adjust the CO2 cartridge screw.
SOLUTION: Ensure that the puncture pin cap is installed

PROBLEM: Air/CO2 is leaking from remote line adapter
SOLUTION: Replace Air/CO2 cylinder valve O-ring.

PROBLEM: After installing a new cartridge you hear CO2 leaking internally.
SOLUTION: Check the O-rings of the long gas line and short gas line are not damaged/worn

PROBLEM: The regulator vents CO2 continuously.
SOLUTION: Adjust the Pressure Relief Valve.
SOLUTION: Check the Regulator Pin for dirt, damage or if it is incorrectly installed. Clean, inspect and replace if damaged.

NOTE: When assembling, be sure the Regulator Pin seats into the Regulator Piston

PROBLEM: You pull the trigger, but it binds and will not release.
SOLUTION: Check the Actuator Pin for misalignment. Disassemble the Firing Valve and make sure the Actuator Pin is pushed in flush with the Firing Valve Body during assembly.

PROBLEM: Air/CO2 is leaking out of the barrel
SOLUTION: Check the Front Valve Spool O-ring for dirt or damage. Replace as necessary.

PROBLEM: When the trigger is pulled slowly, a short leaking sound is normal. The leak continues without the marker firing.
SOLUTION: Check the Valve Spool rear O-ring and the Air Valve End Cap O-ring for dirt or damage

PROBLEM: You fire the marker but fail to launch and paintballs
SOLUTION: If the Front Bolt sticks in the forward position, paintballs will not load. Check the Ball Latches (detents) to be sure one or both are not installed backwards.
SOLUTION: If the Front Bolt is installed correctly and does not return completely, paintballs will not load. Check the Barrel Adapter and the Air Valve Assembly for dirt or damage. Clean and lubricate the Front Bolt and the Air Valve.

These troubleshooting points are from the work of Glenn Mehltretter and others in the TCR Owners Facebook Group. Though PaintballTech reformatted their work to conform to this guide, PaintballTech takes no credit nor presents these tips as PaintballTechs own work.

PROBLEM: 12rd Magazine fail to load properly
SOLUTION: Loosen the screws on the magazine 1/2 turn to prevent binding of the spring

PROBLEM: TCR Chops paint, fails to load paint properly
SOLUTION: Tighten the tip of the bolt. Use BLUE loctite to secure the tip

PROBLEM: Magazine catches in the magwell
PROBLEM: Inserting and removing magazines require extra force
SOLTION: Loosen the screw at the bottom of the grip to provide more room for the magazines

PROBLEM: Bolt is stuck in the forward position
SOLUTION: Paint shell (roundball or FSR) got stuck in the breach, binding the bolt. Use a squeegee to push the bolt back and clear the breech.

PROBLEM: TCR will fire, then not fire. After a period of waiting, it will fire again
SOLUTION: The two allen screws on the regulator that hold the pin have come loose. Tighten these screws to fix the issue. Use a [strong]very[/strong] small amount of blue loctite on the threads to hold them in place. DO NOT get loctite on any of the O-Rings